Wednesday, September 14

Surf chick

When I was young(er) I had a boyfriend who used to rave about surfing and climbing and sailing with the whales (I kid you not) and stuff like that. This was in a time when I was in Romania and whales and waves were really hard to find :) Nonetheless, the idea of surfing and riding a wave has always fascinated me - to say nothing of the cool surf videos that are all over youtube. So yeah, I've been wanting to surf for about 11 years now. This wish of mine FINALLY came true this weekend.

Verdict? IT'S FUCKING HARD. You have to paddle, and stand up, and watch the waves, and balance and fall properly and watch your head and don't swallow the water and don't panic and AAAAAAAAAAARGH!!!!(did i mention that i can't really swim!?) Ah well... My luck was that I had a really really patient teacher. At first he tried to teach me everything, like paddling and turning and stuff. It went well, and I almost stood up, but then I got hit in the head by the board. Afterwards, he decided to push the board (rather than have me paddle), tell me to forget about all the things i have to do, and just stand up and ride.



It was MAGICAL. About 30 milliseconds of magic followed by a very big splash, but still. MAGIC.



The muscle soreness that followed the next day? Absolutely horrible. My right triceps hurt in ways I never thought it would hurt, and my abs were BURNING. Nonetheless, I suppose it gets better with practice, and practice I will.

3 comments:

dor said...

u actually have a tag created as surfer chick! oh my i foresee loads of surfing for you soon...

Gri said...

Oh come on, surfing now?! :)
If I knew u'll get this cool...

claudia said...

yeah hahaha i be surfer chick now ... every guy i talk to is a "dude" :)