Wednesday, May 1

Projecting boulder problems

I wanted to write a very insightful post about projecting. About how it's important to get all the moves wired on a particular problem. How it's important to save your energy and not give it 200 attempts EVERY TIME you try it, but give it 20, and commit 100% to each and every one of them. About how it's important to really want it, and I mean really really want it, but not want it so much that it clouds your focus.
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And then I realized that I can't write this post. Not after giving Master Bates 250 attempts* over the weekend (really, I only did one other problem and tried another one).  In these 250 attempts, I got very close to the end (within millimetres!!) exactly five (FIVE) times.

- the first time I got to the second last hold and had forgotten what to do
- the second time I had a plan but it was the wrong one: I cannot power through the sequence at this point as my power endurance is shit.
- the other three times I just could not step high enough. Once it just hurt too much - my wrist joint detached itself (hallelujah for the tape!) and it just hurt too much. Another time I got distracted by my spotters (they were superiorly excited!).

I also realized that I probably cannot focus correctly. That wanting the send makes me so anxious that I start shaking (only mentally thank fuck because otherwise I would have to use the core to control the bodily shakes as well!) and loose all the mental juju. And then I start to think about my spotters. How they're so excited and cool that I must send it for them! I also must send it such that they stop spotting and move to greener pastures! For me to move to greener pastures!

I also cannot rest between attempts. I CHARGE!! ROAR!! at the project and it flicks me off its shoulder like a stoopid little fly that I am (if only I had wings though!, zzz). My best attempt is the first one but I do not seem to be able to give up if I fail, even after the 50th attempt, and not even after my performance degrades significantly.   Because I am tired, the attempt is half assed and does not win me anything except more frustration. But, true to form, I do not quit.

Thinking back at my previous projecting experience, it was only after giving up all expectations of myself that I could actually do it. Hm. I probably am my worst enemy. That, and too fat, too old, and too weak for this sport. PFfft.

* Or what seemed like 250 attempts - I did not count them - I wish I had enough skin to give it so much.

4 comments:

Anonymous said...

Find a wall in your gym, replicate that move and make sure you nail it. Then go back to Master Bates. It's easier than it sounds.
jensen

Anonymous said...

words of wisdom from Jensen indeed.. I will try Master Bates.. If and when i get there.. haha

san

claudia said...

San! The move Jensen is talking about is a right hand on the cupcrimpch (remember it?!!) :)

san said...

Oooh.. Cupcrimpch.. Cup it harder! No.. Crimp it harder. Oh damn! CUPCRIMPCH IT!!!!