Friday, January 30

Bollocks

Nothing better to further one's academic career than to meet one's committee member while one is dressed in tights (with big fat ass) and going for sekret, middle of work day-you-should-be-in-the-lab training session.

Sandra and I completed the warmup and fingerboard session in about 40 mins and were joined by ZhaoXiu for the projecting session (~1 hr). We set some pwetty hard (OMG HARDD) routes that triggered our individual and still oh so common weaknesses: Pinches and Slopers. The Crimps are definitely the more holdable nowadays. Who would have thought of that?

On a hand by hand evaluation, my left hand is definitely the weaker of the two (probably because of my injured elbow) and thus transforms to chicken-bingo-wing whenever any form of strain (i.e. holding pinchy crimp) is put upon it. As for my right hand, all attempts to summon muscles to hold the black pinch on my route were met with an absolute silence. Maybe I should do a rain dance before training to help the summoning power.

To top it up, I AM climbing with a (still :( ) injured ankle and thus even the small quantity of extra balls and dynamism that I had are totally absent. I will not commit to a move that I don't know 120% that I will stick.

Today's resolution: During each climbing training do three sessions of hanging on slopers. Starting tomorrow. I wonder if all this will ever end. Maybe one day I will wake up as Dave Graham. Or maybe not.

3 comments:

dor said...

YES your route on the 38degree wall is OMG HARD. but nice route still.

and I hear that talking to an injured body part helps it to heal faster. (tried and tested haha)

shuhui said...

HI CLAUDIAA!
I felt really bad the whole day i went swimming and didn't climb after that which i promised to.

i know you're concerned about us and want to motivate us to train even harder.and yes i will join secret secret this friday cos i am free! :D

(ps i still love you as much hehe)

claudia said...

shu, I won't believe it till I seez it ;)!!